Nick Carr on September 30, 2020 1 Comment It might surprise all but the most staunch beer enthusiasts to know that hops didn’t always have their haloed place in beer history. That’s right you die-hard hop heads…if you’d been around about 700 years ago, that beer you’re holding wouldn’t have contained any hops. There’s evidence that hops were used in brewing as early as the 9th century. However, common widespread use only extends back some 600 years. Before hops made their splash, other herbal mixes, known as gruit, were used to bring balance to ancient brews. The herbs included in these gruits varied between places and suppliers. In fact, many suppliers and brewers made a point to keep the exact makeup of their gruit mixes a secret. The three main herbs most often referenced being used in Gruit recipes are Sweet Gale (Myrcia gale), Marsh Rosemary (Ledum palustre), and Yarrow (Achillea millefolium). Though Martyn Cornell points out in Amber, Gold, & Black, the inclusion of Sweet Gale and Marsh Rosemary in the same Gruit recipe is likely a modern construct because they aren’t usually found growing in the same areas, and Marsh Rosemary seems to have been thought of as a poor substitute for Sweet Gale. Yarrow, an inconspicuous, hardy and sometimes garden herb sometimes weed, has a long history of human use, not only in fermentation but also as a food and medicinal plant. The oldest recorded use of Yarrow goes all the way back 60,000 years to the Neanderthals. A grave excavated in Shanidar, Iraq revealed a Neanderthal that had been buried with yarrow and several other plants. Further evidence of Neanderthal use of the herb was discovered at a site in El Sidron, Spain. When Neanderthal dental work from this site was analyzed it showed chemical traces of yarrow and chamomile. Medical Uses of Yarrow Its Latin name, Achillea millefolium, means “the thousand leaved plant of Achilles,” and refers to Achilles’ use of the plant to staunch the wounds of his men during the Trojan War (even though the specific plant is never mentioned in the Iliad). In Sacred Herbal Healing Beers, Stephen Harrod Buhner notes, “more than 58 indigenous tribes regularly used it for medicine in North America.” Yarrow’s medicinal uses are many, though it’s probably best known as a natural bandage, able to stem the bleeding and help heal deep wounds. It also has properties lending to its use against fevers, indigestion, urinary tract infections, and dysentery, to name only a handful. The Importance of Yarrow In Ancient Brewing We need only look as far as the many names for yarrow in Scandinavia for evidence of its place in the brew pot. The most widely used name was jordhumle “earth hop.” But Denmark used several variants referencing hops. Jutland named it brygger (brewer) and gjedebrygger (goat brewer), and Iceland used vallhumall (meadow hops) and jardhumall (earth hops). (Buhner, Sacred Herbal healing Beers; referencing Nordland, Brewing and Beer Traditions in Norway) This abundance of names and referencing of hops show a continued reliance on herbs, especially yarrow, even after hops had gained in popularity. There was even a time when England outlawed the use of hops, preferring their gruit to the upstart hop. The same things that made Yarrow such an important medicinal plant to ancient people likely played into its use in brewing. Much like hops, its bittering, antibacterial, antiseptic, and antimicrobial actions could balance an ale and protect it from infection. Yarrow also had an added inebriating quality, making any ale brewed with it more potent. The heightened inebriating properties of yarrow are well documented, as in this passage: “The inhabitants of Dalekarlia mix it with their ale instead of hops, in order to increase the inebriating quality of the liquor…” found in The Gardener and Botanist’s Dictionary, written by Philip Miller. Today, these properties are thought to stem from thujone. Thujone can be found in a number of common plants, including sage, coriander, and tarragon; but its notoriety comes from its connection to wormwood, which is used to make absinthe. Brewing Beer With Yarrow: What You Should Know Growing and Harvesting Yarrow Yarrow is a hardy perennial (can be evergreen in warmer places) that many consider a weed. Most species grow just fine on average, or even substandard soil. Yarrow tolerates drought, cold, and heat reasonably well. Yarrow can be found all over the U.S. and in large parts of the World. If you’re considering growing yarrow for the first time it’s always good to get local advice from a nursery or garden club. They can provide you with good recommendations on care and species that do well in your area. Yarrow can be grown from seed, but it’s also often sold as a small plant in nurseries. If you happen to have a neighbor that is already growing Yarrow you can see if they won’t divide their plant (something that’s recommended every 4 or 5 years). Note: If you are working among yarrow plants long enough it can give bare skin a slight rash. Some Common Yarrow Species: There are over 85 species of yarrow. Some species never grow higher than a ground cover; others can grow up to 5 feet tall. Here are a couple of the most common. Common Yarrow (A. millefolium) – Most likely what you would see growing wild on forest edges, in meadows, or along the road. Flowers are gray to white and the plant can grow from 2 to 3 feet tall. Feather-leaf Yarrow (A. Filipendulina) – Often found in gardens. Can grow up to 5 feet tall, large feathery leaves, and big yellow flower heads. Sweet Yarrow, Maudlin, Sweet-Nancy, Moonwalker (A. ageratum) – Can grow up to 18 inches tall and have 3 to 5-inch clusters of golden flowers. General Characteristics: The information below is generalized somewhat and should not take the place of your own research once you’ve decided on a particular species. Other Common Names: Bloodwort, Field Top, Devil’s Nettle, Little Feather, Milfoil, Nosebleed plant, Soldier’s Woundwort, Thousand-Seal Hardiness Zone: 3 – 9 Climate: Yarrow can be found in all parts of the United States, Canada, and much of Europe Soil: Average to poor; likes well-draining soil Sun: Full sun Water: Drought tolerant; Water well in the first year after planting; Needs limited water once established (watering too much may increase the likelihood of mildew) Maturity/Size: Perennial; Grows to 1 to 4 feet tall depending on species; bloom in late spring and may continue up until the first frost; flowers are small white, yellow, or some shade of pink and form flat-topped dense umbrella-like clusters at the top of each stem. Harvest Time: Harvest leaves and blossoms for brewing as soon as they have fully bloomed; usually in July or early September Possible Diseases: James Schuster of the University of Illinois lists three things to watch for on yarrow: Like hops, yarrow is susceptible to powdery mildew. Planting in full sun and improving air circulation by trimming will reduce the likelihood of infection. Botrytis, a gray mold, can also attack yarrow. It will look like brown or black dead areas on the plant. Cut infected stems and throw them away. Water with a soaker hose, instead of a sprinkler, to allow the yarrow to dry out fully. The spittlebug is an insect; produces foam that helps protect it from predators and the sun. Easy to remove by spraying with a stream of water. Ease of Harvest: Easy Storage: Use fresh or hang and let dry When to Forage & Harvest Harvesting should be done around noon on a warm sunny day. Wait for the dew to dry out and allow the sun to start drawing the oils. This ensures the highest quality aromatics. Yarrow leaves are used for bittering. The flower is used for both bittering and its aromatics. Harvest Yarrow leaves anytime; however, if you plan on harvesting the flowers don’t over harvest before it blooms. Flowers should be taken as they first open and become fully vibrant; but before they start turning brown and drying out. Only harvest healthy-looking leaves and flowers. If a leaf or stem has mildew or grey fungus on it, cut it away and get rid of it. This will help keep the fungus from spreading. If foraging wild Yarrow, do it with a measure of respect. Treat plants as you would in your own garden and never take too much. Remember to leave some for the insects. Drying Drying yarrow extends the time it can be used in your brewing. You can do this in a dehydrator or simply by laying it out on a drying rack or newspaper in a room with good airflow and minimal light. You can also bundle 5 to 6 stems, secure them together with string, and put them upside down in a paper bag with some holes poked in it. Close off the paper bag around the stems and hang it in an airy room. Availability Before you go buying yarrow it’s worth making a trip around your neighborhood and any nearby open land. A neighbor or two may grow yarrow and let you harvest some, perhaps in exchange for a bottle or two of the finished beer. There’s also the possibility some wild yarrow might be growing not too far away. If you can’t find any free, don’t worry about it. Yarrow is a common herb and it’s not hard to find places that sell it. It may be available as a bulk herb in your local co-op, or herbal shop. If not, it’s easily purchased on the web. Here are a couple options from Amazon. SpruceOnTap also sells freshly harvested yarrow in vacuum-sealed bags, in case you’re after a close-to-fresh option. Aroma and Sensory Expectations The environment (terroir) does play a role in the aromas and flavors offered by any herb, so keep this in mind. Generally, the leaves and flowers have a mildly herbal spicy aroma (slightly sage-like), especially when crushed. Other characteristics sometimes associated include citrus, woody/earthy, peppery, pine, and mint. By themselves, the flowers may carry a delicate sweet quality in their aroma. Using In Brewing Is It Safe As I stated in the history portion, yarrow contains thujone. Thujone is considered a toxin, though there is no clear toxicity associated with the use of yarrow. This study, by Lachenmeier and Uebelacker in which they proposed an ADI (Average Daily Intake) “which would not be reachable even for consumers of high levels of thujone-containing foods (including absinthe),” indicates brewers would have to work very hard to reach a toxic level. Also, common sage, which is considered safe, contains more thujone than yarrow. I’ve brewed with yarrow before and I had no side effects. One side effect associated with yarrow ale is the increased likelihood of a headache. Brewing Tips The leaves and stems carry more tannins than do the flowers, so they will have a stronger bittering action. Flowers will have more aromatics. Looking at this information the natural tendency would be leaves/stems as a bittering addition, and flowers near flameout or even in the fermentor. This is probably the best place to start, though obviously there’s plenty of experimentation to be had too. One more important thing to consider is the difference between fresh and dried herbs. Dried herbs tend to have a stronger profile than fresh herbs. A good general rule of thumb, and one held by Joe & Dennis Fisher in The Homebrewer’s Garden, is to use half the amount of a dried herb as you would the fresh herb. Though some will recommend as much as 4 oz. of dried or 8 oz. of fresh for a 5-gallon batch, start with a much lower quantity. Yarrow is strong stuff and can become overpowering quickly. Take your favorite pale ale recipe and get rid of the hop additions. Add 1/2 to 1 ounce of either a mix of yarrow flowers/leaves/stems or just leaves/stems as a bittering addition. Then add 1/2 to 1 ounce of flower tops to your fermentor. See how this goes for you. Once you’ve made your first yarrow ale and have some idea what characteristics to expect (or whether you even like it) you can add or subtract, and play with the makeup (stems/leaves vs. flowers), to get a profile more fit to your personal tastes. Some of the More Common Beer Styles to Use Yarrow: Wheats Blondes Porters Biere De Garde Pale Ales IPAs Bitters Stouts Saisons Belgian Ales Gruit (not recognized by the BJCP yet) Yarrow works especially well in more rustic styles. Commercial Examples: To help you gain a better idea of how yarrow can add to the character of different styles of beer I would recommend you sample as many of these as you can find. This research will no doubt be fun, but also give you a deeper understanding of how you might use spruce tips and other spruce products in your own homebrewing. Peach Gruit Ale from Mountain Town Brewing Company (USA) – Also uses Peach Juice, Myrtle, and Marsh Rosemary Kvasir from Dogfish Head Brewing Company (USA) – Developed from a recipe created from the analysis of a 3,500-year-old Danish drinking vessel Weekapaug Gruit from Magnolia Brewing Company (USA) – Also uses Cherry Bark, Dandelion Greens, Gentatian, Angelica, and Elderberry Powder Nordic Pale Ale From Beau’s Brewing Company (Canada) – Also uses Sweet Gale, Heather Flowers, Rose Hips, Cranberries, and Maple Syrup Wy’east Charrow Ale from Old Growth Ales (USA) – Also uses Golden Cherries The Achilles Yarrow Porter from powers Farm & Brewing Company (USA) Wild Thing 2 from Earth Eagle Brewing (USA) – Also uses lemongrass and sloe berries Wild Farm Ale from Field House Brewing & Dageraad (Canada)
Thomas Patrick Carney says November 3, 2020 at 8:20 pm Great research, I’ve been using yarrow for 25+ years but never as my primary bittering agent, but you can use herbs/weeds to great effect, dandelion, burdock, stinging-nettle, oregon grape, labrador tea, red clover, raspberry leaf, and alfalfa. There are also more careful preparations that can be made with other stronger herbs but that require a little more knowledge to pull off, I hesitate to name with out the caveat of extreme caution. pycho-active,and stimulants…ect Reply