Nick Carr on June 15, 2020 0 Comments Americans tend to have a hard time coming to terms with British bitters. They are ales out of their time, misunderstood by most American drinkers who have nursed their affinity for sudsy libation on either the macro pale, cold, and bland; or the craft bold, cold, and extreme. British bitters are a throwback to a simpler, slower time. They are not extremely bitter, despite their name and when served properly at a balmy 55oF and with very little carbonation, would likely make any uninitiated drinker cringe and wonder if a bad joke was being played. Yet, a well made and cared for bitter is beautiful. All that’s required is a bit of appreciation for subtlety and delicate balance. The soft carbonation allows a bitter to run smoothly across the palate with just the barest hint of lift from a bit of natural carbonation. Serve this one too cold and it falls flat, feels harsh, and runs thin; but when it’s at the proper temperature it rolls with a whispered interchange of malt, fruity esters, and defined bitterness. It’s the jovial, easy-going, English pub experience in a glass. At its best Bitter is a living beer. After fermentation is complete they are put in a cask and a secondary fermentation allowed to take place. This is called cask-conditioning, and like bottle conditioning, creates a natural amount of carbonation from any leftover, or added sugars. It is still working when it makes the trip to the pub. At the pub, the cask is carefully prepared for serving. Gas is bled off until the proper carbonation is reached and the cask is left on its side to allow particles to settle out. Once it has “dropped bright” it is served under no pressure, through a hand pump called a beer engine. Because some oxygen gets in through the pumping action the beer will change over time, giving a patron a subtly different taste experience over time. History of Bitters Bitters share the same lineage as pale ales and for much of their history, there was little distinguishable difference between the two. In fact, for many drinkers today the only difference between the two is how they are served; casked, and through a beer engine (bitters) or bottled (pale ale). It took the invention of coke (coal with fewer impurities) in the mid-17th century, to bring the first ancestors of what would become the pale ale/bitter family onto the scene. Maltsters immediately took to the new fuel, replacing less reliable (not to mention smoky) fuels like wood and straw in the kilning process. Coke also offered better control over kilning temperatures, allowing maltsters to create paler malts with better fermentability. But, coke was also expensive. Some pales were brewed during the start of the 1700s, but because of the added expense, the beer brewed exclusively with pale malt became the domain of the wealthy and well-to-do. Porter, on the other hand, was cheap and spurred by a growing working class its popularity soon passed that of pale ale. It would remain so for most of the 18th century, however, the opening of a new market would broaden pale ales reach. The closing decades of the 1700s saw British rule in India solidified under the East India Trading Company. Beer was of course a requisite staple for the men of the East India Trading Company and they looked to their home shores for a supply. One of the early brewers to take advantage of this new market was the London brewery Bow, owned by George Hodgson. He had the good fortune of Bow being one of the closest breweries to the East India Trading Company’s docks. It was a natural partnership; the Company wanted beer and Hodgson was close. The Bow brewery supplied porter and October beer, which was a well-hopped and strong pale ale. Competition for this market was fierce, much of it coming from Burton upon Trent brewers like Bass and Allsopp. But, Hodgson was able to keep them at bay. That is until a couple of events conspired to change the fortunes of those involved. Heightened import tariffs after the Napoleonic wars ground much of the Baltic trade the Burton brewers were dependent on to a halt. Around the same time, according to Terry Foster in his book Pale Ale, Hodgson seems to have had a falling out with the East India Trading Company, opening the door to negotiations with other breweries. Both Allsopp and Bass, among other breweries, jumped on the chance to bring their own versions of the pale ale into this wider market. It just so happened that the water of the Burton upon Trent breweries were more suited to the well-hopped, brilliant, pale ales than those of the London breweries. London water had high amounts of bicarbonate which put a harsh edge on the bitter pale ales. On the other hand, Burton’s wells were nested in beds of gypsum which made the water high in calcium sulfate. This not only helped clear the wort during boiling but allowed the beer to be hopped at much higher rates without causing unpalatable harshness. This “new” example of the pale ale along with the expansion of the railways within Britain ensured a slow increase in popularity despite still being relatively expensive. It was this newfound popularity in the beginning of the 1800s that likely gave rise to the name Bitter. According to Martyn Cornell in Amber, Gold, & Black, the name bitter was not utilized before 1837 and it seems to have come into use as a way of distinguishing between the newer, hoppier, pale ales and the sweeter, lower hopped, yet (for the time) still pale, milds. However, pale ale and bitter continued to be used interchangeably among brewers. For much of pale ale/bitter history, it was continually playing a game of popularity catch-up with another style, as porter, then mild became the beer of choice in Britain. The 20th century did little to change this. Taxes and World War rationing hit all styles in the gut, folding them over, and causing a steady drop in their strengths. It wasn’t until the mid-1960s that bitter was able to overtake mild as Britain’s favorite beer, and then it only reigned in the top spot for some 30 years before it was forced again to play second fiddle, this time to lager. The Bitter Classifications Some faithful imbibers may see breaking bitters down into categories as unnecessary and even ridiculous, but there is some argument for it, even if it is only for judging, and possibly, so the uninitiated have a lens to peer through and better understand the subtle world of bitters. Bitter is broken into three classifications based almost solely on their strengths. Ordinary bitter runs between 3.2 and 3.8 ABV. Best bitter takes off right at 3.8 and runs up to 4.6 ABV. Strong Bitter or Extra Special Bitter (ESB) climbs even higher, starting at 4.6 and ranging to 6.2 ABV. Bitterness also climbs a little as the strength goes up. Really these parameters only hold true during a competition, otherwise, the sub-styles flow and merge, dictated only by what part of Britain they are brewed in and the brewer doing the brewing. Bottled versions won’t give you the full bitter experience (and some would suggest these are pales, not true bitters), only a casked bitter, drawn through a beer engine can do that (so I’m told). But, until you and I both book that trip to England we’ll have to look to the few places in the U.S. that dispense “real ale,” or settle for bottled versions. Characteristics The guidelines for the Bitters are set by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Committee. The below details are a summary of what each Bitter sub-category should represent. Note: Characteristics between the same cask-conditioned bitter and bottled bitter will not be the same. Generally, bottled versions have higher carbonation and higher alcohol. The BJCP guidelines represent the characteristics of cask “real ale” examples of bitter. The BJCP classifies the Bitters under category number 11, “British Beer.” There are three sub-categories: 11A Ordinary Bitter 11B Best Bitter 11C Strong Bitter Ordinary Bitter Appearance: The color of an Ordinary Bitter can range from washed-out amber to light copper in color. Low carbonation can result in very little head. If present, the head will be white to off-white and remain low. Cask conditioning gives ales good to brilliant clarity. Aroma: Ordinary Bitters are balanced toward the malt aromas with a low to medium maltiness. Expect whispers of caramel along with possible bready, biscuity, or low toasty qualities. Hop aroma will range from medium to none; if present they will be of earthy, resiny, fruity, and/or floral notes. Diacetyl is not usually part of this style, but low levels are okay. Fruitiness should be low to moderate. Mouthfeel: Light to medium-light body and low carbonation will lay this beer quietly across the palate. Taste: Hop bitterness should present at a medium to somewhat high range while the malt profile will be low to moderate. Balance is often scaled toward the bitter end. Hop flavor will have earthy, fruity, resiny, and/or floral notes and range from low to medium. Malt profile brings flavors of biscuit, bread, and/or low toast; with possible notes of caramel and/or toffee. Expect medium-low to medium-high fruity esters. Though the balance is often scaled toward the bitter end, it should not be so bitter that the malt profile, hop flavors, or fruity esters disappear completely. Finish should be dry. Most examples will not have any diacetyl flavors, but a very low range is still considered appropriate to the style. Original Gravity: 1.030 – 1.039 Final Gravity: 1.007 – 1.011 ABV: 3.2 – 3.8% IBU: 25 – 35 SRM: 8 – 14 Best Bitter Appearance: Best bitter can range in color from light amber to medium copper and should have good to extremely good clarity. Low carbonation may cause very little white to off-white head. Aroma: Malt aromas present as low to moderate, possibly with a moderately low caramel note. Expect some bready, lightly toasty, and/or biscuity notes creating a nice malt complexity. Hop aroma usually includes earthy, floral, resin-like, and/or fruity notes and can range in strength from low to imperceptible. Expect some fruity esters, but they should range only mild to medium. Diacetyl is usually not present, but a small amount is not out of style parameters. Mouthfeel: Medium-light to moderate body carried by low carbonation. Bottled examples often have higher carbonation than the cask-conditioned. Taste: Bitterness can range from moderate to somewhat high and hop flavors usually present as floral, resiny, earthy, and/or fruity at a low to medium range. Malt character is usually biscuity, bready, and/or lightly toasty with optional notes of toffee or caramel. Malt flavors range from low to medium. Fruity esters can range from medium-low to moderately high. Balance is usually tipped toward bitterness, but this shouldn’t completely wash out the hop flavors, fruity esters, or malt profile. Diacetyl is okay at low levels but is usually not present. Dry finish. Original Gravity: 1.040 – 1.048 Final Gravity: 1.008 – 1.012 ABV: 3.8 – 4.6% IBUs: 25 – 40 SRM: 8 – 16 Strong Bitter Appearance: Color should be light amber to dark copper, with good, often brilliant clarity, and a low to moderate, white to off-white, head topping the show. The small amount of head is ok as long as it coincides with low carbonation. Aroma: An excellent example will express good malt aroma, with the possibility of recognizable caramel tones. There should be some fruit aroma noticeable, in the range of med-low to moderately high. Hop aroma should be medium-low to medium-high and have earthy, floral, resiny, and/or fruity notes, reminiscent of UK hop varieties. There is usually little to no diacetyl. Some examples may carry low sulfur and/or alcohol notes. Mouthfeel: Mouthfeel should bring authentic low to moderate carbonation, but packaged examples may range into higher carbonation. Medium-light to somewhat full in body. Stronger versions of the style may also carry some alcohol warmth, but it should remain a background element. Taste: Malt flavors will be evident, balancing the medium to mid-high bitterness. Malt will have a medium-low to medium caramel-sweet or toffee-like element, but secondary flavors (bready, nutty, biscuity, and lightly toasty) will lend to complexity. Fruit esters are moderately low to somewhat high. Hop flavor can range from medium to moderately-high and should be squarely footed in the UK varieties, bringing earth, resin, fruit, and/or some floral qualities. It should present with little to no diacetyl and finish medium-dry to dry (the finish will be dryer in examples that have taken advantage of sulfate water). Stronger versions may have low alcohol warmness. Original Gravity: 1.048 – 1.060 Final Gravity: 1.010 – 1.016 ABV: 4.6 – 6.2% IBUs: 30 – 50 SRM: 8 – 18 Pairing Pairing could change slightly depending on which bitter you have sitting on the table in front of you and whether it’s a bottled version or cask. Here are some tips, but really most of these foods would pair just fine with any bitter. Think lighter meals for the weaker bitters. Delicate seafood dishes of almost any variety will work wonders with Ordinary bitter. You could also try lightly battered fish-n-chips if you want to have an English meal with your English beer. A nice chicken salad is another good option. For Best and Strong bitters look for dishes with a little more personality. Game meat will work wonders with a malty, caramel noted strong bitter. Think steak, chicken, or pork with that best bitter. Sausage, burgers, and Shepherd’s pie; even slightly spicy foods can find good accompaniment in a Best or Strong Bitter. Load the cheese plate out with mild options. English varieties such as Lancashire, Cheshire, Derby, and Leicester are good fits for a beer and cheese pairing. For dessert, find a match in anything that can pair with a malty backdrop, but isn’t overly heavy. Things like oatmeal cookies, walnut cake, caramel toffee bars, or carrot cake come to mind. Serving For the best presentation and greatest appreciation, Bitters should be served at around 50 – 55°F in a Glass Mug or a Nonic Pint. They are best stored at cellar temperatures away from light and should be enjoyed young, especially if in a cask and at the lower alcohol range. *Reference: The 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines Award-Winning Examples of Ordinary Bitter Mooey from Bonn Place Brewing Company (Bethlehem, PA) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Silver, 2017. Availability: Rotating Other Examples of Ordinary Bitter To Try Oaked-N-Ordinary from Arizona Wilderness Brewing Company Five Ways To Cry from Forest & Main Brewing Company AK from Hogs Head 54 Brewing Company Southwald Bitter from Adnams Brewing Company Original Bitter from Tetley’s Brewing Company Award-Winning Examples of Best Bitter DBA (Double Barrel Ale) from Firestone Walker Brewing Company (Paso Robles, CA) World Beer Cup Winner, Gold, 2018. Availability: Year-Round Kirke from Corsaire Microbrasserie (Levis, QC, Canada) World Beer Cup Winner, Silver, 2018. Availability: Year-Round Encore from Lacons Brewing Company (Norfolk, England) World Beer Cup Winner, Bronze, 2018; also won Campaign For Real Ale (CAMRA) Champion Gold Ale of Norfolk, 2016. Availability: Year-Round Three Tun from Brew Hub (Lakeland, FL) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Gold, 2017. Availability: Unknown Amber Ale from Saint Arnold Brewing Company (Houston, TX) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Bronze, 2017. Availability: Year-Round Other Examples of Best Bitter To Try London Pride from Fullers Brewing Company Young’s Special from Young’s Brewing Company Master Brew Kentish Ale from Shepherd Neame Brewing Company Cook Lane from Hogshead Brewing Company Award-Winning Examples of Strong Bitter Old Jalopy Pale Ale from Powell Brewing company (Vancouver, Canada) World Beer Cup Winner, Gold, 2018 and Bronze, 2016. Availability: Year-Round Puddlers Row ESB from Conshohocken Brewing Company (Conshohocken, PA) World Beer Cup Winner, Silver 2018 Raleigh Pride from Oak & Dagger Public House (Raleigh, NC) World Beer Cup Winner, Bronze, 2018. Availability: Unknown 14o ESB from Bent Paddle Brewing Company (Duluth, MN) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Gold, 2017. Availability: Year-Round ESA from Yards Brewing Company (Philadelphia, PA) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Silver, 2017. Availability: Year-Round ESB from Holler Brewing Company (Houston, TX) Great American Beer Festival Winner, Bronze, 2017. Availability: Rotating Other Examples of Strong Bitter To Try Chin Wag from Hogshead Brewing Company Naughty Hildegard from Driftwood Brewing Company Lord Rear Admiral From Three Floyds Brewing Company Fuller’s ESB from Fuller’s Brewing Company Twist of Fate from Moonlight Brewing Company
