REVIEW: Kronenbourg 1664

In an ongoing attempt to at least give the benefit of the doubt and explore the much derided (often with some small credence) style so loved by the big beer companies, I purposely place another “premium” lager in my tasting glass. We stare at each other over a gulf of stigmas joyously and tenaciously held by any “craft beer connoisseur” worth their salt.

For anyone that has been keeping up with my weekly reviews you know I’m not a big fan of lagers of any stripe, craft brewed, or otherwise.

That’s not to say I can’t appreciate the qualities of the style. The crisp, quenching, thirst-dragging goodness of a lager on a hot day is something worthy of restrained praise. But I am still in search of the one I’d reach for, not just because the day is hot and I want something refreshing, but because of intriguing flavor; a sipper for other occasions.

France is well known the world over for its food and wine culture. It has produced some of the best wines, cheeses, dishes, and chefs. Their dabbling’s in brewing, though not as renowned, are worthy endeavors interwoven with the traditions of Germany, Belgium, and England; and have added significant pages to brewing history. The Kronenbourg brewery is an important part of that history. This year it celebrates its 350th anniversary, an impressive feat for any brewery.

Kronenbourg 1664 was first brewed in 1952, almost 288 years after the breweries founding. In 2004 and 2005, Kronenbourg 1664 won the International Brewing Award’s gold metal, speaking to the history and experience backing this beer.

The Pour and Aroma

Very active carbonation pushes a two-finger loose and soapy brilliant white head above the surface. The color is perhaps a tad darker than other such lagers; like old summer wheat when it starts to lose color.

The nose shows malt in the grainy sense of lagers, but here it is less intense then say, the Guinness American lager I reviewed last week. A subtle baked character almost over-shadows the grainy quality. There is a very pleasing sweetness; honey and light lemon, some notes of ripe pear.

Mouthfeel and Taste

Body is low-medium and satiating. Carbonation prickles, creating a smooth but tingling mouthfeel.

The lager graininess is quite noticeable at the front, but passes into a something rounder, more complex through mid-palate. The Strisselspalt hop used in this beer is rare and a very mild hop, particular to France, and thus, brings something special to this beer. I don’t know this hop well and so it was hard for me to pick out its characteristics. I get a little bitterness, but more than that I think this is one of the elements that rounds this beer so well, sets it apart from other lagers I’ve had.

The swallow sends up a dryness harnessed in honey and fruity endings. No crisp snap to this finish the taste lingers, almost amusingly, long into the aftertaste. I kept checking to see if the fruit-honey sweetness was still findable, sucking saliva and smacking my lips… it was.

Finishing The Impression

I think I’ve found my sipping lager, at least so far. This is definitely the best lager I’ve had in a long time. The grainy quality of most lagers is something I’ve always had some issue with; sometimes it’s great and I almost like it, other times it completely turns me off. This one seemed more complex. Roundness added by the fruity, honey-like sweetness and sense of lemon makes this beer more complex, more a beer to contemplate.

I don’t pretend to be well versed in the lager arena, and there is a sure possibility that there are other lagers just as good, maybe surpassing this one. But this is my first truly pleasurable experience with a light lager. Something worth noting.

If you haven’t tried this beer give it a shot, it might surprise you, as it did me. If you’re already a lager lover you probably have your own favorites. Let me know what they are, I’m always looking for new territory to explore.

Cheers until next time!

More Beer Reviews:

• Boddingtons Pub Ale
• KCCO Black Lager from Resignation Brewery
• Tour De Fall Pale Ale from New Belgium Brewing
• Rebel IPA from Samuel Adams Brewing Company