Ben Stange on April 15, 2015 14 Comments One of the best things about being a homebrewer is the freedom that comes with the hobby. Homebrewers are free to experiment in many ways which would be considered impractical, expensive, and even crazy in a commercial setting. This freedom often creates some fantastic ingenuity at the homebrew level that would never fly in a commercial brewery. One of the more popular of these inventions is “no sparge brewing”. This method of brewing can save time and equipment, but has its own set of limitations and expenses that makes it an impractical concept when scaled up. What is No-Sparge Brewing? In order to understand no-sparge brewing, it’s important to understand the basics of all grain brewing. In all-grain brewing, you extract the fermentable sugars and flavors of the grain by performing two major steps before the boil: Mashing: Basically, you make a grain tea at a specific temperature. Holding the temperature allows enzymes to break down complex starches into fermentable sugars. Sparging: Once your mash has completed, you drain out the tea and sparge with more hot water to rinse as much sugar as possible from the grain without extracting unpleasant tannins. A lot of time is spent debating the advantages and disadvantages of continuous sparging and batch sparging, but no sparge brewing is a third option which doesn’t always get mentioned. In no sparge brewing, you skip the sparge step completely, which can save significant time on your brew day. In order to do this, though, there are some important considerations that have to be made. 3 No Sparge Brewing Techniques There are a few different methods of no sparge brewing, and they all have advantages and disadvantages. For the most part, they all require additional grain and water, but can save a lot of time in the brewing process. Some brewers report that the body of the beer is improved by not sparging, though the evidence of this is primarily anecdotal. So, the main disadvantage is a decreased brewhouse efficiency, which increases your cost in the amount of grain needed. In addition, you are also limited in beer styles. Brewing higher gravity beers becomes far more expensive in no sparge brewing, and your mash tun size can be a very big problem when trying to brew bigger beers, as well. The main advantage is that you save a significant amount of time sparging. You may also save money on additional brewing equipment, but that depends greatly on which method you choose to implement, and will be offset somewhat on the added grain costs. 1. Traditional No Sparge Brewing The first method is to simply cut out the sparging process altogether. This can be accomplished by simply adding a lot more grain. Typically, a brewer will add about 33% more grain on their malt bill, resulting in an increased price tag. You can see why this would be unpopular with commercial breweries. In addition to adding more grain, you will need to add more water. Let’s say you are brewing a pale ale with 10 pounds of grain. You might mash with 3.75 gallons of water and then sparge with an additional 4.7, making about 8.5 gallons for the entire batch. If we assume a 0.36 qt per pound volume for the grain, the entire mash will take up less than 9.5 gallons. With no sparge brewing, you’ll now need to include all of that water with the grain in your mash tun, plus allow an additional .10 gallons of water to your mash tun for each of the 3.3 pounds of grain you will be adding (for grain absorption). So, you go from needing a mash tun which can hold ten pounds of grain and 4.7 gallons of water to needing a mash tun that can hold 13.3 pounds of grain and 8.83 gallons of water (give or take). With the approximate volume of 13.3 pounds of grain being 1.2 gallons, (at 0.36 qt/lb), you will need a mash tun with a total volume of at least 13.6 gallons. That is a significantly larger vessel for a 5 gallon batch of beer than the 10 gallon Rubbermaid you could be using if you’re sparging. Alternately, you can mash with less water (but as much as possible) and then dilute it to meet your pre-boil volume, but you will lose even more efficiency and the equation breaks down. 2. Brew in a Bag (BIAB) Brewing in a bag is a common form of no sparge brewing. It involves mashing in your kettle using a large nylon or heat resistant mesh “bag”. You heat the full volume of water (what you would normally use for mashing and sparging) to the kettle to strike temperature. Then you add the grain inside a mesh bag, which lines your kettle and holds all of the grain. When your mash is done, you lift the entire bag and all of the soaking wet grain out of the kettle and hold it up while it drains. As you can imagine, this is pretty near impossible to so safely by hand, so a lot of BIAB brewers use pulleys or winches to help with lifting and draining. Other than the method of doing this, Brew in a Bag requires essentially the same considerations as traditional no sparge brewing. You still need to increase your grist by about 33%. The advantage of Brew In a Bag is that you’ll need a lot less equipment than you would with a two-vessel no sparge setup. That also means less cleanup. Overall, BIAB is a better approach to no sparge brewing because of requiring less equipment. 3. Go Big or Go Home The final option we’ll discuss as a no sparge brewing method is a two-vessel recirculating system. The commercial example of this brewing system is Blichmann Engineering’s BrewEasy system. This system allows you to recirculate your mash water between your boil kettle and your mash tun continuously, which creates a very nice filter bed. It also increases your efficiency over traditional no sparge brewing and BIAB considerably. In addition, having a RIMS system gives you an incredible amount of control over the mash temperature. Unfortunately, it also comes with a significant equipment cost. You can build your own Two-Vessel RIMS system like the BrewEasy, as well. You may save some money over buying the BrewEasy outright, but this will still be more expensive than the other no sparge methods. Overall, no sparge brewing is a great way to shorten your brew day if you’re brewing a low gravity beer or are limited on your equipment budget. Unfortunately, this method of brewing does not offer the same flexibility as some other mashing and sparging methods.
Dennis Caves says April 23, 2015 at 7:42 am Really new to crafting my own brew, haven’t tried it yet, but, have found your instructive posts on does and don’ts and choices is very interesting and hopefully helpful when we do! My son and I will be trying our hand at an IPA and a Pale Ale. Reply
Robert Anderson says April 23, 2015 at 10:58 am I do BIAB and do not add any extra grain’s, I have been getting 70% – 85% efficiency. I do double crush/fine crush my grain’s and do a 90 minute mash(probably not necessary). I also squeeze my bag well, the nonsense about squeezing and tannen’s is just that. also with BIAB you have no issues with stuck sparge so you don’t have to worry about that. Reply
Ben Stange says May 8, 2015 at 1:33 pm Thanks for the added info! The 90 minute mash may also be boosting your efficiency, which is great to know. Thanks for the info on squeezing your bag, as well. Reply
Mike Stewart says April 23, 2015 at 12:29 pm This article is full of misconceptions. I am a former 3 vessel brewer turned BIAB guy. My BIAB brews get average 83% brewhouse efficiency, and I don’t use 33% more grain than I would 3v. I use a finer than traditional crush @ .030″ and when I do large 16 gallon batches I just use top up water to make it all work in my 20 gallon kettle. I do recirculate for 10 min at mashout, but even before I started doing that my brewhouse efficiency used to average 78%. The same as I used to get 3v If you need 33% more grain, you’re doing something wrong. Reply
Michael says April 23, 2015 at 1:31 pm I am guessing you haven’t done BIAB yourself. In no way do you need to increase grist by 33%. I can take a all grain kit from any of the big online HBS and hit their predicted numbers or better with biab. All about having the right grind and the right bag Reply
eric says April 23, 2015 at 2:16 pm Never had to increase gist for Biab method even on high gravity beers. Reply
Robert Anderson says April 23, 2015 at 2:23 pm So are you now blocking and removing post that don’t agree with this? Reply
Jeff Flowers says April 24, 2015 at 8:33 am No, Robert, absolutely not. As the moderator of the comments that come through here, I only block/delete the ones that are offensive and call the writer names. Any comments that criticize the article in a constructive manner without resorting to name-calling will always be approved, whether we agree with them or not. This is especially true for the comments that add to the conversation, improve the article being commented on and/or help the average reader understand the information. And the vast majority of the comments we’ve received on this article were exactly that. I, apparently, just didn’t get them reviewed and approved in a timely manner this time around. Reply
Robert Anderson says April 23, 2015 at 2:44 pm Wow. you are so awesome!!!! thanks for the info. Reply
The Brew Bag says April 23, 2015 at 2:44 pm Benjamin, You took a good stab at defining this technique but I’ll guess that by your lack of understanding, you’ve never actually done it. Having brewed over 50 batches BIAB with an average extract efficiency of 79%, I can say with certainty that adding 33% more grain to pick up lost efficiency is unnecessary. On FB, I recently asked BIAB brewers to post their average efficiency and the results from about 40 brewers ranged from 65% to 85%. None of them add extra grain. Just last weekend I used 17 lbs of grain which included 50% rye and 50% 2-row base malt to make 9.5 gallons at 1.052 post boil gravity having started with 13 gallons and 1.042 pre-boil gravity. Tin Man Brewery http://www.tinmanbrewing.com/innovativeprocess a commercial brewery in Indiana use a fabric mesh filter and actually uses less grain than typical commercial brewers. If you’d like verifiable references to processes that confirm no sparge is as efficient than sparging, look up Kai Troester at Braukaiser.com and do bit of reading. You can also go to my web site using my email address. Reply
Ben Stange says May 8, 2015 at 1:37 pm Thanks for the information. I have only brewed in a bag one time, and it was as an experiment for research purposes. My original gravity came out much lower than I expected, so it seemed to jive with the apparently errant information I had read. I appreciate you letting us know about your experiences with BIAB. I’ll have to revisit this process and see what I can do better in my own brew house. Reply
Jason says April 26, 2015 at 10:54 am I just moved from extract to BIAB a couple months ago. I’ve done 8-9 5 gallon batches. I use beer smith and brewers friend, type in my grains and tell it 70-75% and I hit those numbers. I also follow any all grain recipe and it turns out how it’s supposed to. This is the first place I’ve read the grain needs to increase 30%. Reply
Ben Stange says May 8, 2015 at 1:38 pm Thanks for the feedback, Jason. I appreciate you sharing your BIAB experience with our readers. Reply
Mike says July 25, 2017 at 11:54 am I know this is an old article, and a good one, but regarding squeezing the bag in the comments: everything I have read about squeezing the bag is negative, because you don’t want to get tannins and off flavors. I’d rather have worse efficiency and leave the off flavors in the spent grains. Therefore, it would be a better idea to use more grains as suggested. Reply