Jeff Flowers on June 26, 2014 18 Comments Converting an old refrigerator into kegerator isn’t a new concept. But generally, when people undergo this DIY project, they choose an old and ugly fridge that has decommissioned for the dump. But, that’s not our style. And it may not be yours either. This is why we chose to convert a Smeg refrigerator into a kegerator… or as I like to call it, a “Smegerator”. Before we get started, here’s a quick video reviewing the process. I also wrote out detailed, step-by-step instructions below. Watch More Kegerator Videos on YouTube From Smeg-to-Keg: How to Convert a Smeg Refrigerator into a Kegerator Step-by-Step Instructions: Determine the location of your beer faucet Drilling into your Smeg Insert the PVC Spacer & Shank Attaching the Beer Faucet Connect Beer Line to Shank Connect Beer Line to Keg Coupler Attach Gas Line to Coupler Attach Gas Line to Regulator Install Drip Tray (optional) Tap, Pour & Enjoy This is how we did it. Please note: These step-by-step instructions will loosely work with that old, ugly refrigerator you bought off of Craigslist or have sitting around in your garage. But for this specific DIY project, however, we will be specifically referring to the Smeg refrigerator featured in this article. The only difference that may pose a problem for you is the amount of insulation that your refrigerator has. And yes, that did cause a minor, and unexpected, headache for us. Additionally, when you buy a refrigerator-to-kegerator conversion kit, similar instructions will be included. Gathering Your Tools & Components The first thing you need to do is buy a Smeg refrigerator, as well as collect all the components you need. You can go about this a couple of ways. Either order all of the pieces separately, or order our “Smegerator conversion kit.” I’d recommend the conversion kit, as everything you need is right there and you won’t have any surprises in store for you (like we did… but more on that later). Starting off, we chose to use this “refrigerator-to-kegerator conversion kit”. We had all of the tools and components laid out and ready to go. Below is a list of tools that you will need. You Will Need: Black Tap Handle Chrome-Plated Faucet with Brass Lever Faucet Shank – 6⅛” x ¼” Bore “D” System Sankey Keg Coupler Beer Line Air Tube Primary Double Gauge Regulator Door-Mounted Drip Tray Spanner Wrench & PVC Spacer Tools: Measuring Tape, Saw, Screwdriver, Adjustable Wrench & Pencil (Click Here for Conversion Kit) Step 1: Determine the location of your beer faucet Now that you have everything you need, the first thing you need to do is figure out where you want the beer faucet to be. This is something you will have to eyeball and figure out what is best for you. We just moved the faucet around until we found a spot we liked. Once you have figured out where you want your faucet to be, I would recommend you get some tape, such as masking or painters tape, and put it around the area you will be drilling. This will help protect the front of your Smeg from scratches and dents that may incur during the drilling process. I would also recommend to avoid using tape that may leave a sticky residue behind, such as duct tape or moving tape. Now that you have your spot marked and the area covered up with tape, it’s time to drill into the front of your fridge. You have one shot at this, so make sure you’re ready. Step 2: Drilling into your Smeg The front of the Smeg is plastic and very easy to drill into. You will need your ¼” drill bit and the 1-⅛” hole saw for this step. Start with your ¼” drill bit and drill a small pilot hole where you want your beer faucet to be. I would recommend going in as straight as you can. Once you have your pilot hole drilled through, use the 1-⅛” hole saw and cut a hole in the refrigerator’s door using the original pilot hole as a guide. Once you start cutting, you will quickly realize that the plastic on the door is very thin, maybe a millimeter or so. Behind that is the insulation. Cutting through the insulation will create a bit of a mess, with powder going everywhere. It was at this time that we discovered that our hole saw wasn’t quite long enough to penetrate the other side of the door. Looking at the inside of the Smeg, we couldn’t tell that any renovation had been done on the other side. After measuring and being able to estimate where the hole would be, we were still hesitant to blindly cut through the inside. Alternatively, we stuck a long screwdriver through the hole and was able to poke a hole through the plastic inside of the refrigerator. Using that hole as a guide, as well as our previous measurements, we used the hole saw to cut through the inside of the fridge. We now have a perfect 1-⅛” hole all the way through our Smeg refrigerator. Step 3: Insert the PVC Spacer & Shank After we drilled the hole through the Smeg, we inserted the PVC pipe into the fridge and discovered that it was the perfect length. Unfortunately, that was a bad sign. We were supposed to stick the PVC spacer through the hole, mark it and then use the hacksaw to cut off a small amount of it. Because the PVC spacer was too short, we quickly realized that the 4-⅛” shank was also too short. It didn’t come all the way through the fridge; therefore, we couldn’t tighten the nut on the back of the shank which essentially locks the beer faucet to the refrigerator door. Taking the collar off of the shank didn’t work either. While it gave us an extra eighth of an inch, it was still not long enough to tighten the nut on the inside. This presented us with an interesting situation that most people don’t encounter during a refrigerator-to-kegerator conversion. How do we get the shank all the way through the door? We contemplated drilling a larger hole on the inside of the fridge that would allow us to tighten the nut to the shank. However, we quickly concluded this would be a mistake that would only create a much larger mess for us. Not just during the installation process, but every time we opened or closed the fridge, dust from the insulation would go everywhere. This would be an ongoing problem. Additionally, we didn’t know if the nut on the back of the shank would hold tight, as it would be gripping against insulation that may slowly float away, and not a flat, solid surface you would usually find on the inside of your fridge. Our solution: We needed a longer shank. We went back to our warehouse and got a 6-⅛” shank with a connecting tailpiece. This was the perfect length for the Smeg. Now that we have the right size shank, it’s time to tighten the shank nut. Using your crescent wrench, tighten until it is snug. Do not over tighten the shank nut! Step 4: Attaching the Beer Faucet Now that you have the shank securely in place, you will now attach the beer faucet. It’s worth noting, however, that you may prefer to attach the faucet before securing the shank. Some people prefer to go that route when converting a refrigerator to a kegerator, but for this particular conversion, we attached the shank first. There is no wrong way, as long as everything is secured tight in the end. The faucet will come in two pieces, the stainless steel faucet and a blank knob. The knob is detachable so that you can change out the tap handles at your leisure. Secure the faucet to the shank on the outside of the fridge. It’s also worth noting that lefty-loosey, righty-tighty does not apply here. To Tighten = Turn counter-clockwise To Loosen = Turn clockwise Once you have tightened the faucet as much as you can, you will want to use your spanner wrench to tighten just a little bit more. You want to make sure it is as tight as possible, or you run the risk of it leaking. Step 5: Connect Beer Line to Shank Now that your faucet and shank are connected to your Smeg, it’s time to connect your beer line. Before you do this, it is important for you to know that it is not wise for you to cut the beer line any shorter than it already is. This is a common mistake people make when converting a fridge into a kegerator. Cutting it shorter than 5 ft. may cause your beer to pour too fast or be foamier than you intend. Recommended Tip: Before you try to attach your beer line, we would recommend soaking the end of it in hot water. This will help soften it, making it easier for you to attach to the shank. To connect your beer line to your shank, you will slip the end of it onto the tail piece. Like the beer faucet, you will want to make sure it is tight to prevent any leakage. Step 6: Connect Beer Line to Keg Coupler After you have connected your beer line to the shank, you will need to connect the other end to your keg coupler. First, remove the colored cap from your keg coupler. Then, add the washer to the inside part of your wing nut/beer line. This will help prevent any leakage when beer enters into the line. Once the washer is in place, tighten the wing nut to the keg coupler. Step 7: Attach Gas Line to Coupler Now that your beer line is securely attached to both your coupler and shank, the next step is to attach your gas line to the other end of the coupler. Also, with the gas line, you should see two red plastic clamps. These are important, so make sure you do not lose these. Again, we would recommend soaking the gas line in hot water to help soften it up. While it is not necessary, it will help it slide on easier. Once you have connected your gas line onto the barbed gas inlet on the coupler. After this, you will slide the red clamp over the end of the line and use a pair of pliers to tighten it. It is very important that this clamp is tight, as it will help prevent any CO2 from leaking out. Step 8: Attach Gas Line to Regulator To attach the gas line to your regulator, you will basically replicate the previous step. Soak the end of the line in hot water. Slide it over the barbed outlet of your CO2 regulator. Tighten it with the red plastic clamp. You also want to make sure your regulator is set in the OFF position before attaching the gas line. Note: You do not have to store your CO2 tank inside your refrigerator, but wherever you store it, it is highly recommended that you store it upright for proper efficiency. If you choose to store it outside the fridge, you will need to drill another hole to run your gas line. We chose not to go that route with the Smeg, but it can easily be done. Step 9: Install Drip Tray (optional) For aesthetic purposes, you may choose to install a drip tray underneath the beer faucet. This will help catch any spillage coming from the tap. This is not necessary for getting the beer to flow properly, but it may cause you less of a headache in the long run. However, I would strongly recommend installing a drip tray. Not only will it complete the overall look, but you will save yourself the hassle of cleaning up all the terrible pours and residue drops that came out of the faucet. In my opinion, it’s an easy way to stop a potentially long-term problem. Either way, you can always add it on later. Step 10: Tap, Pour & Enjoy (mandatory) That’s it. You did it! Now the time has come to tap a keg, pour a pint and brag to your friends about how awesome your Smegerator is. Or at least that’s what I did. Any Questions? As you can see, this was a pretty detailed article. For anybody attempting to convert a Smeg refrigerator into a draft beer dispenser, I would suggest printing this out and watching the video above. Please remember, these step-by-step instructions will loosely work with most refrigerators, but are specifically designed for a Smeg. If you have any questions about this build or would like to troubleshoot a potential problem you may be experiencing, please leave me a comment down below. Cheers!
Seth says July 15, 2014 at 10:58 am What pressure should be maintained in the CO2 tank, and for how long? When i first connected it the tank read about 3000, the next morning it was 650. I assumed there was a leak and put soap water on all the connection but saw no bubbles. I tried to tighten everything just in case but nothing seemed loose, yet the pressure hasn’t gone down much since then. Was the CO2 absorbed by the beer? Was there a leak and I unknowingly fixed it? Was something leaking at high pressure but not low? Do I need to re-pinch the clamps? So confused… More importantly, how to you recommend making all of the seals on the 10 or so parts? Teflon tape? Silicone? Gaskets? Reply
Jeff Flowers says July 15, 2014 at 11:10 am Hi Seth! I’d recommend checking out this article about common CO2 questions we receive. Also, here’s a guide to regulating compression. Lots of good info in both of those articles. The CO2 will vary between brands and styles of beer. However, typically you will want the CO2 pressure to be around 10-14 PSI. You can also ask the brewery, distributor and/or place you bought the keg what they would recommend. It’s also recommended to use hose clamps to tighten all of the seals on your lines. Especially when it comes to CO2 lines. Beer and gas lines should come equipped with them, but you can get them at your local hardware/auto store. Hope this answers your questions. Jeff Reply
Fletcher Johnson says July 15, 2014 at 12:33 pm The pressure reading in your tank will measure differently depending on the temperature. If you put your tank into the fridge the pressure will be much lower. Reply
Adam says July 15, 2014 at 4:20 pm Hi Jeff, I don’t own a smeg fridge, but I do own some other old similar size fridge and am looking to make a kegerator. Would the instructions remain essentially the same? I’ll be hiding the kegerator behind a bar so I’m not concerned with the look of the fridge (it won’t be as pretty as yours is), I just need something that will work. Thanks in advance! Reply
Jeff Flowers says July 15, 2014 at 4:31 pm Hi Adam, Yes, the instructions would basically be the same. I’ve converted a couple of refrigerators to kegerators, and the SMEG was the thickest one I’ve ever done. Because of this, we needed a longer shank. That’s really the only difference that I’ve encountered, but all fridges will be slightly different in thickness,etc. We sell a variety of conversion kits, all of which come with step-by-step instructions. You can check those out here – http://www.kegerator.com/kegerator-conversion-kits Good luck. I love my fridge-kegerator. Jeff Reply
Brendan says March 17, 2015 at 1:25 pm I want to convert my rc cola fridge like restaurants have and was wondering if it was pretty doable -http://images1.americanlisted.com/nlarge/rc-cola-cooler-500-wagarville-americanlisted_29719907.jpg my fridge looks like this and I was thinking on doing the dispenser and drip tray on the side. I’d take out the bottom 2 racks to make enough room. Thoughts? Reply
Jeff Flowers says March 19, 2015 at 12:17 pm Hi Brendan, Looking at the photo you sent over, I’m not sure if that would be doable or not. It depends on whether or not the coils within the fridge are on the side. I’m not familiar enough with these types of beverage coolers to confidently say one way or another. If you drill into it and damage the coils, you would possibly ruin the whole thing, or have to get the coils replaced. I’ve converted a few fridges to kegerators, and I’ve always gone through the front because there’s no risk of damaging the coils. You would certainly have enough room, there’s no question about that. It’s risky. I don’t think I would risk it…. But, if you do, take some photos. I’d love to see the process and final setup. Jeff Reply
luis coentrao says April 9, 2015 at 12:41 pm Hi Jeff, I’m really interested in the Smegerator ! Does it fit inside 2 corny kegs (5 gallons each) plus the CO2 bottle? Is it possbile to get a smegerator conversion kit for 2 faucets? Preferably faucet with Kompensator. Cheers Luis Reply
Jeff Flowers says April 10, 2015 at 4:01 pm Hi Luis! Yes, it will hold two corny kegs, along with the CO2 tank. I also believe it will hold two Quarter Barrels (7.75 gallon kegs), but I’m not 100% sure on that. (If memory serves correctly, we tested that and it worked, but I don’t want to mislead you.) Yes, it is possible to convert it into a dual-tap kegerator, however, it appears that we only sell a single-tap conversion kit for the SMEG. We sell other dual and triple tap kits, but likely, the shank in those won’t be long enough. While these typically work with standard refrigerators. However, the front of the SMEG fridge was so thick with insulation that we needed a longer shank in order hook everything up properly. So, I would dissuade you from going that direction. As to your last question, I’m not quite sure what you are referring to…. are you looking for a flow control valve? The Smegerator will work with pretty much all types of faucets that attach to a shank that is 6 1/8″ x 1/4″ bore. Please let me know if you have any further questions or would like more clarification. Cheers! Jeff Reply
Luis says April 14, 2015 at 3:49 pm Thanks Jeff, Regarding the faucet question: Does the shank you have attachs to a Perlick flow control faucet? Other thing, do you have experienced foam problems with the first pour? As the faucet stays outside the fridge it gets warmer than the beer/line/Keg inside the fridge. Read that those who built a kegerator from a freezer experienced first pour problems due to the higher temperaturas found at the faucet level / top of the keezer. Cheira, Reply
Jeff Flowers says April 15, 2015 at 9:36 am Hey Luis, Yes, the shank sticks through the front of the fridge and the faucet attaches directly to it. With my personal Fridge/Kegerator conversion at home (which is not a SMEG) I have noticed a few foamy pours at first, especially right after I tap a new keg. But… it doesn’t seem to be a recurring problem. But, I also keep mine in my garage, so the Texas heat is undoubtedly playing a role in this equation. Other than that, the beer lines are all kept cold, and I don’t get too much foam. Maybe a little more foam than i’d get if my fridge conversion was inside the house where the temp differences aren’t so extreme. To give you an idea of what I’m working with. Here’s a photo of my personal kegerator — https://learn.kegerator.com/big-mountain-pale-kegerator-art/6/ Obviously, you’re asking about the SMEG. While we haven’t had a keg in there for a few months, when we did… the experience was pretty much the same as discussed above. First couple of pours were a little foamy, but nothing excessive. Hope this answers your questions… If not, please let me know. I’m pleased to help out in anyway I can. Jeff Reply
Luis Coentrao says September 1, 2015 at 10:04 am Hi Jeff, Finally I found a nice looking retro SMEG fridge. I’d like to have at least 2 fauces on it. I already have a CO2 bottle and controller, beer and gas lines. I’m looking for: – 2 Perlick flow control faucets – 2 Shanks with nipple assembly (for 3/16 ID beer lines) – 2 PVC spacers – The drip tray (like the one in the vídeo). I looked in the kegerator website for those items: – I don’t know If a Perlick faucet model 650SS connects to the faucet 6 1/8” X 1/4” bore – I didn’t find the drip tray. Can you help me on that task? What is the most convenient way to make the order? Cheers, Luis
Jerramy says June 23, 2015 at 3:28 am Do you have to install the taps through the door? Can you use the side of the fridge? Reply
Jeff Flowers says June 23, 2015 at 7:45 am Hi Jerramy, You can drill through the side, but it’s risky and not recommended. This is because there are coils that are embedded on the sides of refrigerators, and if you hit those coils, you risk permanent damage to the unit. The front of the Smeg fridge is nothing but insulation. While it was a bit messy to drill through that insulation, it didn’t cause any sort of damage to the unit itself. Different refrigerator models may not have coils in the side, which would mean it’s safe to drill through. But, that’s something you’d have to ask about when buying or choosing a fridge you want to convert into a kegerator. Jeff Reply
Joey says November 27, 2016 at 7:43 pm Jeff, Any idea where the cooling coils are on that thing? This is pretty awesome. I am trying to get a kegerator for the new kitchen. I have a small space that i can use. The kegerators that fit are either crazy expensive or ugly (according to my wife). Your video has given me hope. The Smeg mini fridge would fit perfectly, but I’d have to drill through the top. Any idea if there are cooling coils on top? …please say “no”, please say “no”… Reply
Jeff Flowers says November 28, 2016 at 11:23 am Hi Joey, For the specific SMEG fridge that I converted to a kegerator, I believe that the coils are located on the side, not the top. HOWEVER, I am not 100% sure on that. Additionally, that particular SMEG model has a small freezer section located at the top of the unit, so that would likely be another issue you would have to consider before buying one to convert. SMEG does offer wide range of refrigerators, including a mini-fridge that you likely are looking at, as well as a few with a bottom freezer. So, it’s not impossible to find one that would work for your specific application. But, the problem therein becomes whether a beer keg would even fit inside the fridge, not to mention the CO2 tank and the coupler that extends the height of each keg. Both of these will make it unlikely that the mini fridge would work, to be honest. This article here will give you a better idea of the dimensions of the different types of kegs. I would recommend checking out the product manual to see where the coils are located at, as well as verifying the interior dimensions of the fridge. I believe you can download all of this info on their website. And, if I were in your shoes, I would also go the extra step and call SMEG directly to verify. Another consideration: You can always paint the door or buy a wrap for other kegerators. This may be the perfect compromise needed to please your wife, and still give you beer on tap. Good Luck! Jeff Reply
DANIEL GONCALVES says June 17, 2018 at 5:08 am Hi, Can you send this smeg kit to Australia, Cheers DAN Reply
Jason Simonson says July 8, 2018 at 6:09 pm Hey Dan, You inspired me and an got the Smeg. Before I drill my wholes can you please tell me why you used the pvc pipe spacer and just did not drill a smaller hole to match the diameter of the shank. Did you experience any twisting of the handles to the left or right when pouring a beer. I just know that some people may pull from the top of the handle and maybe harder than they need too after a few beers. I obviously do not want scratch’s on door. Thanks for the help! Reply
